Customize Your Knitting: Adjust to fit; embellish to taste by Margaret Hubert


225b84ae9fcb285-261x361.jpg Author Margaret Hubert
Isbn 9781589238862
File size 14.7MB
Year 2016
Pages 112
Language English
File format PDF
Category hobbies



 

Customize your knitting © 2016 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. First published in the United States of America in 2016 by Creative Publishing international, an imprint of Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. 400 First Avenue North Suite 400 Minneapolis, MN 55401 1-800-328-3895 QuartoKnows.com Visit our blogs at QuartoKnows.com All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with information supplied. We apologize for any inaccuracies that may have occurred and will resolve inaccurate or missing information in a subsequent reprinting of the book. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ISBN: 978-1-58923-886-2 Digital edition published in 2016 eISBN: 978-1-63159-150-1 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available Design and page layout: Laura McFadden Design, Inc. Cover Image: Shutterstock Photography: Chris Hubert; Glenn Scott Photography Body Type Illustrations: Sharon Hubert Valencia Printed in China Customize Adjust to fit • Embellish to taste your knitting Margaret Hubert Dedication To my wonderful family, I could not do any of this without you. Acknowledgments It takes a lot of people to put a book together, and this book was particularly challenging because of all the different aspects, from the making of all the garment sections, the photography, the editing, and all the behind the scenes staff. I owe special thanks to: Lion Brand Yarn Company, who generously contributed the yarn for all the garments and all the step-outs in the book. Chris Hubert, my son, who did most of the photography, working with me every week for months. Rita Greenfeder, for her wonderful tech editing skills and diagrams. Singer Sewing Machine Company, who provided their handy, adjustable dress form, an invaluable tool when making garments. Guardian Custom Products for providing their E-Z Blocking Board. Every knitter should own one of these. I also would like to thank Paula Alexander, Jeannine Buehler, Mary Ann Ciccarone, Adrienne Cooper, Theresa DeLaBarrera, Ginger Dutton, Mary O’Hara, Deb Seda-Testut, Nancy Smith, and Marie Stewart who helped knit all the beautiful garments and Sharon Hubert Valencia, who created the body type illustrations and helped with a lot of the finishing. Heartfelt thanks to my editor and friend Linda Neubauer. Introduction 6 Custom Knitting sect ion 1 Understanding Body Types Taking Measurements Adjusting Sleeve Measurements Little Shells Cardigan ~ Customize Fit and Style Traveling Vines Pullover ~ Customize Fit and Style Pineapple Twist Cardigan ~ Customize Fit and Style Climbing Leaf Hoodie ~ Customize Fit and Style 8 9 9 10 17 24 31 42 48 60 68 Professional Finishes sect ion 2 Good Habits Seams Attaching Sleeves Collars and Neckbands Front Borders Inserting Zippers Pockets Buttonholes Blocking Oops! How Do I Fix That? 77 78 80 81 82 84 86 88 90 91 Stylish Embellishments sect ion 3 Decorative Edges Motifs Ties Embroidery Sweater Gallery 94 105 107 108 110 Abbreviations 112 Introduction Most patterns in books and magazines are section Professional Finishes, you will learn methods designed to fit the Classic Rectangle body for finishing your projects that will give them a shape, because almost half of all women fit neat, flawless look. Aside from the fit, there are this body type. In the first section of this book, often features in patterns that we might like to Customize the Fit, you will find instructions for change or details we might like to add. In Stylish four different sweaters. Each sweater uses a Embellishments, you’ll find ways to embellish your different stitch pattern, and each stitch pattern work, add pockets, or change closures to make has a different degree of difficulty. The original your projects truly your own creations. instructions are written to fit the Classic Rectangle body type, and guidance is given for how to ad- This book is a guide that will help you knit just the patterns to fit different body types. Once garments to fit your measurements and your you learn the concept, you can apply it to most style, then expertly finish them so you will be patterns. The examples in this book are both proud to wear them. cardigans and pullovers. Whatever your size, whatever your body type, the most flattering garments are those that fit you properly. In the s e c tion 1 Custom Knitting The one thing that I hear from so many of my students is that they love to knit, but they only make shawls, scarves, baby blankets, baby sweaters, and hats. The main reason is because whenever they try to make a garment for themselves, it never fits properly. The first step to making a garment that fits is to understand your body type, and in order to do that you must know how to measure your body correctly. Included in this section are instructions for four different sweaters, arranged in order of difficulty based on the stitch pattern. After the basic instructions for each pattern are instructions for how to increase and decrease the stitch pattern and how to adjust the shape of the sweater to suit different body types. Once you have determined your body type, read through the instructions, choose a project, and pick up your needles. Be patient, check your gauge, and measure often. You can do this! Understanding Body Types There are many different body shapes, but most of us fall into one of four main body types. Classic Rectangle: The hips and chest are balanced and the waist is not deeply defined. This is the most common body type. Triangle (sometimes called Pear Shape): The hips are proportionately larger than the chest and shoulders, and the waist is somewhat defined. TIP If you are a Rectangle Shape, you may want to give the appearance of a smaller waistline. You can do this by simply decreasing a few stitches at the waist, working for about 2 inches (5 cm), then increasing back to the original stitch count. Another trick for narrowing at the waist is to use smaller needles through this area. This works particularly well if the pattern is a large multiple of stitches and difficult to increase and decrease. TIP If you are a Triangle Shape, there are a few things that you can do to balance the hip line and smaller chest. You can add small shoulder pads or add interest, such as a ruffle or other embellishment near the neckline, to draw attention upward Inverted Triangle: The upper body is proportionately larger with broad shoulders. This body type has an ample chest and wide back, with slim hips. Hourglass: The chest and hips are well balanced and the waist is very defined. The shoulders align with the hips and the upper body is proportionate in length. TIP If you are an Inverted Triangle, there are a few things that you can do to create balance. You might like to add a V-neck, or add different edges to the bottom of a garment. 8 Customize Your knitting TIP If you are an Hourglass figure, you might want to embrace your curves, and shape the waistline by increasing and decreasing. 5. Cross Back. Measure from one shoulder crest across the back to the other. Taking Measurements Before you begin a project, measure yourself and draw a diagram with your measurements, so that you can readily see where the pattern needs to be adjusted. For example, look at the schematics following the sweater patterns on pages 16, 30, 51, and 66. These show the measurements of the final knitted pieces for each design, assuming one has knit in the correct gauge. How to Measure Your Body Take your measurements over undergarments for accuracy, using a flexible tape measure. Enlist the help of a friend. When measuring the chest, waist, and hips, make sure to keep the tape measure parallel to the floor all around. 1. Chest/Bust. Place the tape measure under the arms, across the widest part of the back and fullest part of the chest/bust line. 2. Waist. Tie a string or piece of narrow elastic around your middle and allow it to roll to your natural waistline. Measure at this exact location. Leave the string in place as a reference for measuring the hips and back waist length. 3. Hips. Measure around the fullest part. 4. Back Waist Length. Measure from the prominent bone at the base of the neck down to the waistline string. 6. Sleeve Length. Take two measurements here: With your arm at your side, measure from the shoulder crest to the wrist bone. Then, with your arm slightly away from your body, measure from the armpit to the wrist. 7. Sleeve diameter. Measure around the fullest part of your upper arm. Adjusting Sleeve Measurements If you have a slightly wider upper arm measurement than the pattern calls for, there are a few things that you can do to correct the problem. First, you must determine how the sleeve pattern increases. Generally the increases are about every two inches (five centimeters), gradually shaping from a cuff to the upper arm. If you need more room in the upper arm area, you can make more increases by placing the increase rows closer together, say about every one and one half inch (four centimeters), until you reach the desired width. You will then have to decrease the added stitches in the cap area. The difficulty of the pattern and the multiple of stitches will determine how to make the increases. Instructions are given for how to make increases and decreases for each of the stitch patterns used in the four designs. If you need to make the sleeves longer or shorter than the pattern calls for, this can also be achieved by changing the spacing between increases. Custom knitting 9 Little Shells Cardigan The Little Shell pattern is one of the easiest stitch patterns to adjust for fit. This lovely open fabric not only turns a classic cardigan shape into something special, it works up quickly, has a soft drape, and lends itself to further embellishment. skill level Easy cl assic rectangle Yarn: Light Shown: Lion Brand Superwash Merino, Color 102 Aqua, 100% Super Wash Merino, 3.5 oz (100 g)/306 yds (280 m): Aqua 5 (5, 6, 7) skeins Needles: Sizes 4 (3.5 mm) and 6 (4 mm) or size needed to obtain gauge Gauge: 21 sts and 28 rows = 4" (10 cm) in patt on size 6 needles 20 sts = 4" (10 cm) in seed st on size 4 needles Notions: Seven ½" (1.3 cm) buttons Stitch markers Tapestry needle Sizes: Small (Medium, Large, X-Large) Finished chest: 34 (38, 42, 46)" [86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 117) cm] Finished length: 20 (21, 21½, 22½)" [51 (53.5, 54.5, 57) cm] Take time to check gauge. Custom knitting 11 Note: Pattern is multiple of 7 plus 2. Back With size 4 needles, cast on 86 (100, 114, 128) sts. Work seed st border as follows: Row 1: *K1, p1, rep from * across row. Row 2: *P1, k1, rep from * across row. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for 1" (2.5 cm). Change to size 6 needles and work patt as follows: Row 1: Knit. Left Front With size 4 needles, cast on 49 (56, 63, 70) sts. Work seed st border as Back. Change to size 6 needles and work as follows: Row 1: Work Row 1 of patt to last 5 sts, place marker on needle, cont seed st patt on last 5 sts. Row 2: Work seed st on first 5 sts, patt Row 2 until end of row. Cont in this manner, keeping 5 sts at Front edge in seed st and rem sts in patt, until 12½ (13, 13, 13½)" [32 (33, 33, 34.5) cm] from beg, ending at arm side. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K2, *yo by wrapping yarn over needle to back then to front again, p1, p3tog, p1, yo, k2, rep from * across row. Armhole Shape Rep Rows 1-4 until piece measures 12½ (13, 13, 13½)" [32 (33, 33, 34.5) cm] from beg, ending with Row 4. Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8) sts at beg of armhole edge, cont patt to end of row. Making sure to keep patt as established, dec 1 st at armhole side every other row 2 (2, 2, 2) times—42 (49, 54, 60) sts. Keeping Front edge in seed st, cont until armhole is 5½ (6, 6½, 7)" [14 (15, 16.5, 18) cm, ending at Front edge. Armhole Shape Neck Shape Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Making sure to keep patt as established, dec 1 st each side every other row 2 (2, 2, 2) times. Work even in patt on 72 (86, 96, 108) sts until armhole is 7½ (8, 8½, 9)" [19 (20.5, 21.5, 23) cm]. Bind off 19 (21, 24, 28) sts at Front edge, finish row. Making sure to keep patt as established, dec 1 st at neck edge every other row 3 (4, 4, 4) times. Work even on rem 20 (24, 26, 28) sts until armhole is same as Back. Bind off. Row 4: Purl. Shoulder Shape Bind off 20 (24, 26, 28) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Bind off rem 32 (38, 44, 52) sts. 12 Customize Your knitting Right Front Before starting Right Front, mark Left Front for 7 buttonholes, evenly spaced, starting at center of bottom seed st border and planning to have the seventh buttonhole added when 1" (2.5 cm) neck border is completed. With size 4 needles, cast on 49 (56, 63, 70) sts. Work seed st border as for Back. Change to size 6 needles and work as follows: Row 1: Work seed st on first 5 sts, place marker, work Row 1 of patt until end of row. Row 2: Work patt Row 2 to last 5 sts, seed st on last 5 sts. Cont in this manner, keeping 5 sts at Front edge in seed st, rem sts in patt and working a buttonhole at marked spots as follows (seed st on 2 sts, yo, k2tog, seed on last st) until 12½ (13, 13, 13½)" [32 (33, 33, 34.5) cm from beg, ending at arm side. Armhole shape Neck Shape Bind off 19 (21, 24, 28,) sts st at Front edge, finish row. Making sure to keep patt as established, dec 1 st at neck edge, every other row 3 (3, 4, 4) times. Work even on rem 20 (24, 26, 28) sts until armhole is same as Back. Bind off. Sleeves (make 2) With size 4 needles, cast on 44 (51, 58, 58) sts. Work seed st border as for Back for 1" (2.5 cm). Change to size 6 needles. Work in patt, inc 1 st each side every 1" (2.5 cm) 13 (14, 15, 16 times) keeping inc sts in St st until there are enough sts to form a new patt. Work even on 70 (79, 88, 90) sts until Sleeve is 15½ (16, 16½, 17)" [39.5 (40.5, 42, 43) cm]. Cap Shape Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st each side every other row 11 (12, 13, 13) times. Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 4 (4, 6, 6) rows. Bind off rem sts. Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8) sts at armhole edge, cont patt to end of row. Making sure to keep patt as established, dec 1 st at armhole side every other row 2 (2, 2, 2) times. Keeping Front edge in seed st, cont until armhole is 5½ (6, 6½, 7)" [14 (15, 16.5, 18) cm], ending at Front edge. Custom knitting 13 Finishing Sew shoulder seams. Neckband Set in Sleeves With RS facing and size 4 needles, pick up 5 sts along seed st border, 19 (21, 24, 28) along bound-off edge of Right Front, 6 (7, 8, 9) sts along Right side neck shaping, 32 (38, 44, 52) sts along Back bound-off sts, 6 (7, 8, 9) sts along Left side neck shaping, 19 (21, 24, 28) sts along Left Front bound-off neck sts, 5 sts along seed st border—92 (104, 118, 136) sts. Work in seed st for 1 row, make last buttonhole on next row, cont seed st until neck border is 1" (2.5 cm). Bind off in patt. Mark center of sleeve cap, match center with shoulder seam, pin cap in place, easing in as you sew. Sew underarm seams. Sew on buttons. 14 Customize Your knitting Blocking Lay on a padded surface, sprinkle with water, pin into shape using rust proof pins, allow to dry. Classic Rectangle body type: pieces on blocking board Custom knitting 15 4 (4¼, 4 ¾, 4 ¾)" [10 (11, 12, 12) cm] 3½ (4½, 5, 5½)" [9 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm] Back 12 ½ (13, 13, 13 ½)" [32 (33, 33, 34.5) cm] Sleeve 7½ (8, 8½, 9)" [19 (20.5, 21.5, 23) cm] 6 (7, 8, 10)" [15 (18, 20.5, 25.5) cm] 15½ (16, 16½, 17)" [39.5 (40.5, 42, 43) cm] 5½ (7, 7, 7)" [14 (18, 18, 18) cm] 9 (10, 11½, 11½)" [23 (25.5, 29, 29)cm] Right front Left front 9 (10½, 12, 13)" [23 (26.5, 30.5, 33) cm] 9 (10½, 12, 13)" [23 (26.5, 30.5, 33) cm] 16 Customize Your knitting 12½ (13, 13, 13½)" [32 (33, 33, 34.5) cm] 2" [5 cm] 3½ (4½, 5, 5½)" [9 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm] 2" [5 cm] 7½ (8, 8½, 9)" [19 (20.5, 21.5, 23) cm] 12½ (13, 13, 13½)" [32 (33, 33, 34.5) cm] 3½ (4½, 5, 5½)" [9 (11.5, 12.5, 14) cm] 7½ (8, 8½, 9)" [19 (20.5, 21.5, 23) cm] 17 (19, 21, 23)" [43 [48.5, 53.5, 58.5) cm] 13 (15, 16½, 17)" [33 (38, 42, 43) cm] Customize the Fit Increasing and Decreasing the Little Shells Pattern With a pattern like Little Shells, which has a small multiple of stitches, there are a number of ways to increase stitches. You can keep the added stitches in stockinette stitch until you have enough stiches to form a new pattern, or you can work partial patterns each time that you increase. You can keep the added stitches in stockinette stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl) and keep the pattern only in the center. To decrease, eliminate a stitch from the pattern each time a decrease is made. Custom knitting 17 the triangle body If your body type is Triangle, begin your garment following a size that fits your hip measurement, then gradually decrease to fit the waist and chest measurements of a smaller size. Once you have reached your chest measurement, finish the garment following the smaller size instructions. 18 Customize Your knitting

Author Margaret Hubert Isbn 9781589238862 File size 14.7MB Year 2016 Pages 112 Language English File format PDF Category Hobbies Book Description: FacebookTwitterGoogle+TumblrDiggMySpaceShare Personalize any knitting pattern for a perfect fit and style all your own, with expert help from Margaret Hubert! Designers have to create knitting patterns in standard sizes, but very few people actually match up to those “average” measurements. Body shapes vary, weight fluctuates, and good fit means different things to different people; so what is a knitter to do? Customize Your Knitting teaches you how to adjust standard patterns to fit your unique measurements. Through techniques that Margaret Hubert has used for years to teach classes on custom fitting, you can learn to adjust patterns for a perfect fit for yourself or someone else. Yarn shop instructors can use the book to teach classes for their customers. However, fit is just one part of customizing a garment. Maybe you’d like that neckline a little higher, or you’d like a little flare to the sleeves. How about adding subtle shaping to the waist on a boxy but otherwise perfect sweater pattern? How about adding a polo-style button placket to that plain crew-neck sweater? Or add a sporty buttoned pocket to a sleeve for carrying your iPhone. It’s easy to add your personal style with Margaret’s tips. Diagrams and illustrations throughout the book will help you understand body shapes and easily compare measurements. Garment construction, specific increases, decreases, and other shaping methods, as well as finishing techniques and embellishments are all explained and photographed clearly. Make every project perfectly tailored to you!     Download (14.7MB) Customize Your Crochet: Adjust to fit; embellish to taste The Knowledgeable Knitter: Understand the Inner Workings of Knitting and Make Every Project a Success Top-Down Crochet Sweaters: Fabulous Patterns with Perfect Fit Knit Lace & Leaves for Baby Modern Classics: Twenty Handknit Classics for the Modern Woman Load more posts

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