Curls: Versatile, Wearable Wraps to Knit at Any Gauge by Hunter Hammersen

745848eeb7a8245-261x361.jpg Author Hunter Hammersen
Isbn 9780984998258
File size 12MB
Year 2014
Pages 68
Language English
File format PDF
Category hobbies


Curls versatile, wearable wraps to knit at any gauge Hunter Hammersen Pantsville P r e s s Text © 2014, Hunter Hammersen, with the exception of the text on page 11 which is © 2014, JC Briar Photos © 2014, Hunter Hammersen Charts © 2014, Hunter Hammersen All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. All business names, product names, and trademarks used within are the property of their respective owners. Charts created with StitchMastery Knitting Chart Editor. ISBN: 978-0-9849982-5-8 First Printing, 2014 Printed in China Pantsville Press Cleveland, Ohio Contents Introduction �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 1 Anatomy of a Curl���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 3 Hints ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 6 Gauge. Needles, & Sizing ������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 7 Charts���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������8 Blocking��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 9 Stitch Maps ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 10 Patterns Caesious��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 12 Cerise ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 16 Gridelin���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 20 Argent ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 24 Pavonated ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 28 Infuscate ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 32 Ianthine ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 36 Watchet�������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 40 Nacarat ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������44 Sinopia �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������48 Filemot ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 52 Icterine������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 56 Fulvous ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������60 Chlorochrous��������������������������������������������������������������������������������64 Thanks������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������68 Sources ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 69 Ó 12 16 20 24 28 32 34 40 44 48 52 56 60 64 Introduction It started, as these things so often do, with a swatch. A pretty little stitch pattern caught my eye, and I wondered how I might incorporate some increases while maintaining the pattern. After a bit of playing around, I found I had a rather interesting shape. A few hours later, I had a pile of swatches, a stack of scribbled charts, and (confession is good for the soul) a maniacal glint in my eye. The more I played with the shape, the more I loved it. It was gently curved on both the top and bottom, which let it sit beautifully on all the rounder parts of the body. One or two of my swatches got wrapped around my wrists as cuffs, and some of the larger ones found themselves pressed into service as cowls. It didn’t take long to realize that, if I didn’t make myself stop, I’d soon have pieces that could serve as scarves or shawls. With that, the spark was struck. I saw that I could put together a collection of incredibly flexible patterns for pieces that could be knit at any gauge, with any weight of yarn, and to any size. But what would I call them? They weren’t really cowls or scarves or shawls, or at least they weren’t until a knitter decided to make them so. As I looked at my swatches and admired their lovely curving forms, I realized I’d just have to call them Curls. The name seemed to fit perfectly. I confess, I’m still rather infatuated with them. I think you will be, too! The flexibility of the shape puts you in total control. The projects shown here are made with everything from light fingering yarn to worsted weight and range in size from delicate little cowls to shawls I can wrap around myself twice. And any of these patterns would work in any of the weights of yarn and look beautiful at any of the sizes. And the flexibility doesn’t stop there. You can knit your Curl however you like, but you can also wear it in a multitude of ways. Leave the fabric open, let it wrap around your shoulders, and pin it in place (like Chlorochrous, page 64). Crumple it up a bit and drape it around your neck (like Cerise, page 19). Wrap the skinny end around the thicker end (like Pavonated, page 29). Fold it in half and pass the ends through the fold like a scarf (like Argent, page 27). Throw one end over your shoulder while the other drapes down your chest (like Caesious, page 15). Form it into a loop and wrap it around your neck (like Ianthine, page 29). Or let the bulk of the piece sit on your chest and bring the ends behind your neck (like Icterine, page 57). You really can’t mess this up. Your Curls will drape beautifully no matter how you wear them. Experiment and find your favorite way! ˙ 1 Anatomy of a Curl Before we dive in, let me say you can totally skip this part (though I do recommend you at least read the Hints section, page 6). It is officially allowed. You can turn to the patterns and dive right in, and everything will come out fine. That’s half the fun of these projects. They just sort of work on their own! I will never know you skipped ahead, and your Curls will be lovely. 1 Edge This section makes up the straight edge on one side of the Curl. It will be two or more stitches wide and will have as many rows as the main repeat. 2 Main Repeat This section is the main attraction. It’s the pattern that makes up the field of your Curl. It can be any size. 3 Wedge This section prepares you for the next instance of the main repeat. Its size But if you do want to understand what’s going and shape are the most variable of all the on (either to modify the patterns provided pieces. It will have as many rows as the here or to make up your own), this is the place main repeat, and its width will be a multo be. tiple of the width of the main repeat. It will I’ll begin by taking you through the pieces of often incorporate parts of the stitch pattern a Curl. Then I’ll talk a bit about how a Curl found in the main repeat. comes together, how the charts are laid out, 4 Increases This section lets your Curl grow. and some of the modifications you might see It gives you the new stitches the wedge from one pattern to the next. needs. It will be four to six stitches wide This diagram shows the five pieces of a Curl. (and the stitch count may vary from row to row) and will be as tall as the main repeat. 5 Finish This gets your stitches ready to bind off. Sometimes it’s one row, sometimes it’s several, and sometimes it’s not there at all. These five pieces, taken together, make up the most basic Curl. But if you just knit that, you’d have a tiny piece of fabric. The magic happens when you continue to repeat the edge, main repeat, wedge, and increases. Each time you repeat them, your knitting gets bigger, and it starts to form a lovely curved shape. The pictures on the facing page show two Curls spread out flat and oriented more or less the way you’d wear them. The bound off edge (section 5) is on the bottom. The increases (section 4) are on the top. It all works because the wedge and the increases make room for more copies of the main repeat. That means that once you’ve worked through your edge, main repeat, wedge, and increases once, you’ve got the 3 right number of stitches to work through them again, this time with one (or more) extra repeats of the main repeat. This is so much easier to see with a diagram. This picture shows a series of edge, main repeat, wedge, and increases worked four times. See how the number of the main repeat increases? That’s how your Curl grows. Now to keep the charts to a reasonable size (and to prevent them from looking too daunting), they’ll look more like the diagram on the previous page than like the one below. That is, they’ll generally only show you one set of edge, main repeat, wedge, and increases sections (plus the finish if you need it). You’ll just keep working the main repeat as needed until the Curl is the size you want. And don’t worry, the colors on the charts match up with what you’re seeing here, and there’s always a note with all the numbers you might need. Once you’ve got the stitches on your needles, I think you’ll find the whole process very intuitive! Part of the fun of Curls is their flexibility. While the principles outlined above hold for all Curls, there are lots of variations. I’d like to outline a few here just so you’re not surprised when you come across them in the patterns. Each individual pattern will have a little guide like the ones shown on the next page that maps out the shape and growth of that particular Curl. 4 Flip things around There’s no reason the edge has to be on the left. It works just as well on the right. About half the patterns have the edge on the left and half on the right. Start with a wedge Often, especially if the main repeat is rather wide, there’s not a good way to jump in with a main repeat right from the start. In those cases, you can start with a wedge and use it to create the space you need a little farther into the piece. Leave some pieces out Sometimes you don’t need a special chart to be ready to bind off, and the pattern may not include a finish section. Change the slope In the example we started with, there was room for one more main repeat every time you worked through the series of edge, main repeat, wedge, and increases. But that isn’t set in stone. You can make space for two or three or even more extra main repeats each time. It all depends on how fast the Curl grows. Different rates of increase will give you different finished proportions. 5 Blocking See page 9. Hints Cast on These cast ons are quite short, so you can use whatever cast on you like best. The projects here use the long-tailed cast on. Cast off The bound-off edge needs to be very stretchy, I recommend Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off as seen in the Fall 2009 issue of Knitty. You’re welcome to use another, but it is important to make sure it’s stretchy! Charts See page 8. Gauge See page 7. Needles See page 7. Stitch definitions Any unusual or potentially unknown stitches are defined as you encounter them. Look for the grey boxes with each pattern for the details of that pattern’s fancy stitchwork. Stitch markers You may find it helpful to separate each instance of the main repeat with a stitch marker. Swatches Swatches are always a good idea. Always. That said, these projects are unusually forgiving, and getting a particular gauge isn’t important (as long as you like the fabric you’re getting, see page 7 for more about this). If you wanted to just start knitting and judge your fabric once you’re a few inches in, I won’t tell. Right-side row Right-side rows are worked with the public side of the Curl facing you. While you knit them, read the chart from right Wingspan This is the edge created by the stitches you add when you work the increases. to left and follow the right-side notations in It is opposite the bound-off edge and will the stitch key. See page 8 for more. likely be closest to your neck when you wear Sizing See page 7. your Curl. Slipped stitches All of the projects call for slipping stitches along the edge of the knitting to create a tidy selvage edge. There are almost as many ways to do this as there are knitters. If you’re getting elongated stitches along the edge of the fabric, you’re doing it right! One approach that works for most people is to always slip the first stitch as if to purl with your yarn held to the wrong side of the fabric. If you find that’s not working for the way you knit, you can also try holding the yarn to the back of the work and slipping as if to knit on right-side rows and holding the yarn to the front of the work and slipping as if to purl on wrong-side rows. 6 Wrong-side row Wrong-side rows are worked with the private side of the Curl facing you. While you knit them, read the chart from left to right and follow the wrong-side notations in the stitch key. See page 8 for more. Yarn requirements Each pattern lists a generous estimate for the yarn needed to complete the project as shown in the picture. This is a good guideline, but estimating yardage requirements is a bit of a black art. If you decide to make your Curl with a different weight of yarn or in a different finished size, you’ll need a different amount of yarn. See page 7 for more about this. Luckily, these are perfect knit-until-the-yarn-runs-out projects! Gauge,Needles,&Sizing One of the most marvelous things about Curls is their flexibility. You can use just about any weight of yarn, and you can make them in whatever size you’d like. That’s wonderful, and it gives you a tremendous amount of freedom to create exactly what you want, but it does mean I can’t tell you too much about your gauge, which needles to use, how big to make your Curl, or how much yarn you’ll need. Think about it for a moment. If I show you a Curl worn as a cowl and made with fingeringweight yarn, and you decide to knit that same Curl to wear as a shawl using a worsted-weight yarn, of course you’re going to get a different gauge, use different needles, end up with a different size, and use a different number of yards of yarn. That’s how it’s supposed to work. These patterns give you the freedom to use whatever yarn you choose and to make whatever size you’d like. I’ve listed the gauge for the samples shown in the book, but you don’t need to worry about matching it. The most important thing to remember about gauge is that if you’re getting a fabric you like, you’ve got the right gauge! If, as you work, you find you want a tighter, firmer fabric, go down a needle size. If you want a looser, drapier fabric, go up a needle size. You’re in complete control. The same applies for the size of your Curl. Have a small skein of yarn? Make a cowl. The smallest project shown here used less than 250 yards of yarn. And if you want to make a giant shawl to snuggle up in, you can do that too. You’re in charge. If you’re happy, it’s perfect. I do recommend checking the size of your Curl from time to time as they have been known to grow rather quickly. To do that, you’re going to want to stretch it out to its full size. The edge with the live stitches wants to curve, so you need to get your stitches onto something flexible. If you’re using circulars and your cable is long enough, you can use that (being careful not to let stitches pop off the ends). If not, a piece of waste yarn will do the trick. Just transfer your stitches to a piece of waste yarn, spread your Curl out flat, and see if you’ve got the size you like (go ahead and give it a good tug as most knitting grows a bit with blocking). 7 Charts I love charts. They’re a great way to present a large amount of information in a small amount of space. But as much as I love them, I realize that they can seem a bit daunting if you’re not used to them. Once you get to know them though, they’re really not hard. The most important thing to remember is that charts show you a stylized picture of the right side of your work. Keep that in mind, and you’re halfway there! Row 1: purl 1, yarn over, work a left-leaning knit decrease, knit 3, work a right-leaning knit decrease, yarn over, purl 1. Next, move on to row 2. All the patterns in this book are worked flat, so you’ll always turn your work at the end of every row. Row 2 is a wrong-side row. Since you’re working a wrongside row, you’ll work across the chart from left to right and make the stitches as indicated by the wrong-side (WS) entries in the stitch key. If a stitch only has one entry in the stitch key, The easiest way to get to know a chart is to work through an example. So let’s talk through it’s either only worked on right-side rows, or it’s the same on both right-side and wrong-side this sample chart step by step. rows. Row 2: knit 1, purl 7, knit 1. Turn your work again, and move on to row 3, a right-side row. Row 3: purl 1, knit 1, yarn over, work a leftleaning knit decrease, knit 1, work a right-leaning knit decrease, yarn over, knit 1, purl 1. Always start with row 1, which is always the bottom row. First, figure out if row 1 is a rightside row or a wrong-side row. The instructions will tell you, but you can also tell from the chart. If it’s a right-side row, the row number will be on the right of the chart. If it’s a wrongside row, the row number will be on the left of the chart. In this example, row 1 is a right-side row. Now start knitting! Just read across the chart and make the stitches in the order they’re shown. Since you’re working a right-side row, you’ll work across the row from right to left and make the stitches as indicated by the right-side (RS) entries in the stitch key. 8 Turn your work again and move to row 4, a wrong-side row. Row 4: knit 1, purl 7, and knit 1. That’s really all there is to it! Some charts are bigger, but the basic principles always hold. The only other thing you might want to pay attention to is stitch repeats. These are indicated by heavy borders surrounding blocks of stitches. When you see these, you know you’ll need to repeat the stitches within the borders as described in the stitch key and notes. You may want to separate stitch repeats with stitch markers to help you keep track of them. Blocking Curls pop into shape with blocking. The pieces here have all been vigorously blocked, and you’ll want to do the same with yours. Now, pin out the straight edge. I use a ruler to keep it nice and straight. Be sure to use rust-proof pins. Start by soaking your Curl in cool water for at least half an hour. Then, roll it up in a towel and gently squeeze out the excess water. Next, pin the bottom edge in a few places just to keep everything following the shape you established when you patted it out. Next, lay it out on your blocking surface (I use blocking mats, but a bed or even a clean carpet will work) and pat it into shape. Then, stretch the top edge (that’s your boundoff edge) and pin it in place. You can give it a good, firm tug to really open up your stitches. Depending on the pattern, the edge may have ripples (like the green swatch), or be smooth (like the magenta swatch). Your shape will look something like the swatches below or the pictures on page 2 though the precise shape will change depending on which pattern you’re following. The light purple swatch has the straight edge on the left. The green swatch has the straight edge on the right. The magenta swatch shows a very curly Curl with the straight edge on the right. Finally, remove the pins along the bottom edge as the shape will be quite well defined by the pins along the top. Let it dry completely (I know it’s hard, but it’s important) before carefully unpinning. 9 Stitch Maps Curls. She wondered what a Curl might look like as a stitch map, and I wonded how I might include some stitch maps in this book. Things got a bit hazy after that, but before too much longer, we had a plan. We’d create stitch maps for the Curls and include links to them as a special feature in the eversion. One of the most delightful things about writing knitting books is meeting other knitting book authors. It’s really awfully neat. There’s nothing quite like spending time with folks who truly understand what you do. A few years ago, I was lucky enough to meet JC Briar at an authors’ retreat. You probably know JC from her marvelous book, Charts Made Simple. If you’ve seen that, you know she’s a big fan of charts. And that’s just what we’ve done! Whenever you see the stitch maps logo (that’s it over there on the left) beside a chart, click it to see the corresponding stitch map online. You’ll see how Curls pair beautifully with stitch maps (just look how closely the stitch map below matches the swatch), and you’ll get to use all the nifty features of JC and I both think you’re going to love working with stitch maps! But, over the last few years, she’s been playing with an ingenious new idea: charts without grids. They’re called stitch maps, and I think they’re marvelous. She’ll tell you all about them on the next page. But before we get to that, I want to tell you about this neat little plan we came up with. 9 14 15 13 16 11 15 So, the last time we visited, JC was talking about stitch maps, and I was talking about 12 13 10 11 16 9 14 15 12 13 10 11 16 9 14 12 7 10 5 8 3 6 1 4 © 10 2 What are stitch maps Simply put, stitch maps are knitting charts drawn without a grid. The symbols of a stitch map are thus free to move about, and to take the same relative positions as the stitches of the corresponding fabric. With stitch maps, you get charts that provide a truer picture of knitted fabric. Why try stitch maps Stitch maps show the shape of your fabric. This is very important with Curls! They also show how the stitches connect from row to row. You get to see which two stitches of the previous row each yarn over snuggles between, and which stitches are joined by a decrease. This helps you see how the parts of a stitch pattern are supposed to fit together. And the better you can see how the fabric is supposed to be, the more likely you’ll be able to follow the pattern with a minimum of mistakes. How to keep track of your current row Because a stitch map shows you how the parts of a stitch pattern fit together, you may find that you memorize the pattern more quickly, and can then set the stitch map aside. Until then, here are some tips for keeping track of your current row within a stitch map: ccWhen you're on, click the “Row guides” option to see light gray lines tracing out each row. ccPrint out the stitch map, and highlight each row as you work it. Use a yellow highlighter pen on the first pass, and a different color on the next pass. ccLet keep track of and highlight your current row for you by purchasing a basic subscription. What else you need to know Some of the symbols used within stitch maps are different from the symbols you’ll see in grid-based How to read stitch maps You read stitch maps charts. That’s because the stitch map symbols just like you read grid-based charts: in the have to be distinct even when drawn at a same direction that you knit, remembering slight angle, to show the tilt of the stitch. For that each symbol is showing you the right-side example, the right-leaning decrease symbol view of a stitch. can’t be a simple slanted line – that would be too similar to a tilted symbol for a knit stitch. Read each stitch map from the bottom up, in rows. Right-side rows are numbered at the All the symbols, however, are meant to resemstitch map’s right edge; read them from right ble the stitches they represent. Just review the to left. Wrong-side rows are numbered at the key (there is a link to the key at the bottom of left edge; read them from left to right. In other every page of the site) to get the gist of each words, read each row starting from the edge symbol, and you’ll be fine. with the row number. So that stitch maps can more closely resemble the right side of your fabric, each symbol shows the right-side view of a stitch. Review the key at to understand how to work each symbol on both right- and wrong-side rows. -JC Briar Author of Charts Made Simple Creator of 11 Caesious shown in DK Weight, a DK-weight yarn by Swans Island, in the color Verdigris. gauge & sizing Shown at 12 stitches in 4 inches in pattern as charted. The piece shown used 325 yards of yarn and has a wingspan of 48 inches. Cast on Cast on 8 stitches. Body Odd rows are wrong-side rows. Even rows are right-side rows. Work the Chart, repeating the 4 rows surrounded by the thick border as described in the key and note, until Curl reaches desired size. Each row increases the stitch count by 1. Stop after completing row 4 of the Chart. Work a final row by slipping the first stitch as if to purl and purling to the end. Finishing Bind off loosely using a stretchy bind off. Weave in ends. Block to shape. 13 Shape Chart Note The 4 rows surrounded by the thick border are repeated to adjust the size of the Curl. The first time you work them, work the block of yellow stitches once. The second time you work them, work the block of yellow stitches three times. Each subsequent time you work them, work the block of yellow stitches two more times. Knit, wrapping twice Knit, wrapping the yarn around the needle twice. On the next row, when you come to this stitch, drop the extra loop of yarn off the needle. 14

Author Hunter Hammersen Isbn 9780984998258 File size 12MB Year 2014 Pages 68 Language English File format PDF Category Hobbies Book Description: FacebookTwitterGoogle+TumblrDiggMySpaceShare Curls are marvelously flexible, wearable wraps that work with any weight of yarn, can be knit at any gauge, and look beautiful at any size. Knit them small and wear them as a cowl. Keep going to make a scarf. Do a bit more, and you’ve got a shawl. They form a wonderfully curved shape that drapes beautifully around your neck and shoulders and can be worn in lots of different ways. Use your favorite yarn, and knit at whatever gauge gives you the fabric you like best. You’re in charge, you can’t mess it up, and you re going to love the result! One small note, the structure of these pieces lends itself much better to charted instructions than to written out instructions. So please be aware that all the patterns use charts. If you’re new to charts, never fear. There is a lovely introduction to using charts at the front of the book. Read through it, and you’ll be ready to go in no time!     Download (12MB) Curls 2: Versatile, Wearable Wraps to Knit at Any Gauge Iris Schreier’s Reversible Knits I Can’t Believe I’m Lace Knitting (Leisure Arts #4466) Knitting Fresh Brioche: Creating Two-Color Twists & Turns Fashionable Projects for the New Knitter Load more posts

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *