versatile, wearable wraps
to knit at any gauge
P r e s s
Text © 2014, Hunter Hammersen,
with the exception of the text on page 11 which is © 2014, JC Briar
Photos © 2014, Hunter Hammersen
Charts © 2014, Hunter Hammersen
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or
mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case
of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law.
All business names, product names, and trademarks used within are the property of their
Charts created with StitchMastery Knitting Chart Editor.
First Printing, 2014
Printed in China
Introduction �������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 1
Anatomy of a Curl���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 3
Hints ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 6
Gauge. Needles, & Sizing ������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 7
Stitch Maps ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 10
Cerise ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 16
Argent ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 24
Pavonated ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 28
Infuscate ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 32
Ianthine ���������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 36
Filemot ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������ 52
Sources ������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 69
It started, as these things so often do, with a
swatch. A pretty little stitch pattern caught my
eye, and I wondered how I might incorporate
some increases while maintaining the pattern.
After a bit of playing around, I found I had
a rather interesting shape. A few hours later,
I had a pile of swatches, a stack of scribbled
charts, and (confession is good for the soul) a
maniacal glint in my eye.
The more I played with the shape, the more I
loved it. It was gently curved on both the top
and bottom, which let it sit beautifully on all
the rounder parts of the body. One or two of
my swatches got wrapped around my wrists
as cuffs, and some of the larger ones found
themselves pressed into service as cowls. It
didn’t take long to realize that, if I didn’t make
myself stop, I’d soon have pieces that could
serve as scarves or shawls.
With that, the spark was struck. I saw that I
could put together a collection of incredibly
flexible patterns for pieces that could be knit
at any gauge, with any weight of yarn, and to
any size. But what would I call them? They
weren’t really cowls or scarves or shawls, or
at least they weren’t until a knitter decided
to make them so. As I looked at my swatches
and admired their lovely curving forms, I
realized I’d just have to call them Curls. The
name seemed to fit perfectly. I confess, I’m still
rather infatuated with them. I think you will
The flexibility of the shape puts you in total
control. The projects shown here are made
with everything from light fingering yarn to
worsted weight and range in size from delicate
little cowls to shawls I can wrap around myself
twice. And any of these patterns would work
in any of the weights of yarn and look beautiful at any of the sizes.
And the flexibility doesn’t stop there. You can
knit your Curl however you like, but you can
also wear it in a multitude of ways. Leave the
fabric open, let it wrap around your shoulders,
and pin it in place (like Chlorochrous, page
64). Crumple it up a bit and drape it around
your neck (like Cerise, page 19). Wrap the
skinny end around the thicker end (like
Pavonated, page 29). Fold it in half and pass
the ends through the fold like a scarf (like
Argent, page 27). Throw one end over your
shoulder while the other drapes down your
chest (like Caesious, page 15). Form it into
a loop and wrap it around your neck (like
Ianthine, page 29). Or let the bulk of the piece
sit on your chest and bring the ends behind
your neck (like Icterine, page 57). You really
can’t mess this up. Your Curls will drape
beautifully no matter how you wear them.
Experiment and find your favorite way!
Anatomy of a Curl
Before we dive in, let me say you can totally
skip this part (though I do recommend you
at least read the Hints section, page 6). It is
officially allowed. You can turn to the patterns
and dive right in, and everything will come
out fine. That’s half the fun of these projects.
They just sort of work on their own! I will
never know you skipped ahead, and your
Curls will be lovely.
1 Edge This section makes up the straight
edge on one side of the Curl. It will be
two or more stitches wide and will have as
many rows as the main repeat.
2 Main Repeat This section is the main attraction. It’s the pattern that makes up the field
of your Curl. It can be any size.
3 Wedge This section prepares you for the
next instance of the main repeat. Its size
But if you do want to understand what’s going
and shape are the most variable of all the
on (either to modify the patterns provided
pieces. It will have as many rows as the
here or to make up your own), this is the place
main repeat, and its width will be a multo be.
tiple of the width of the main repeat. It will
I’ll begin by taking you through the pieces of
often incorporate parts of the stitch pattern
a Curl. Then I’ll talk a bit about how a Curl
found in the main repeat.
comes together, how the charts are laid out,
4 Increases This section lets your Curl grow.
and some of the modifications you might see
It gives you the new stitches the wedge
from one pattern to the next.
needs. It will be four to six stitches wide
This diagram shows the five pieces of a Curl.
(and the stitch count may vary from row to
row) and will be as tall as the main repeat.
5 Finish This gets your stitches ready to bind
off. Sometimes it’s one row, sometimes it’s
several, and sometimes it’s not there at all.
These five pieces, taken together, make up the
most basic Curl. But if you just knit that, you’d
have a tiny piece of fabric. The magic happens
when you continue to repeat the edge, main
repeat, wedge, and increases. Each time you
repeat them, your knitting gets bigger, and it
starts to form a lovely curved shape.
The pictures on the facing page show two Curls
spread out flat and oriented more or less the way
you’d wear them. The bound off edge (section 5) is
on the bottom. The increases (section 4) are on the
It all works because the wedge and the
increases make room for more copies of the
main repeat. That means that once you’ve
worked through your edge, main repeat,
wedge, and increases once, you’ve got the
right number of stitches to work through
them again, this time with one (or more) extra
repeats of the main repeat.
This is so much easier to see with a diagram.
This picture shows a series of edge, main
repeat, wedge, and increases worked four
times. See how the number of the main repeat
increases? That’s how your Curl grows.
Now to keep the charts to a reasonable size
(and to prevent them from looking too daunting), they’ll look more like the diagram on the
previous page than like the one below. That
is, they’ll generally only show you one set of
edge, main repeat, wedge, and increases sections (plus the finish if you need it). You’ll just
keep working the main repeat as needed until
the Curl is the size you want. And don’t worry,
the colors on the charts match up with what
you’re seeing here, and there’s always a note
with all the numbers you might need. Once
you’ve got the stitches on your needles, I think
you’ll find the whole process very intuitive!
Part of the fun of Curls is their flexibility.
While the principles outlined above hold for
all Curls, there are lots of variations. I’d like to
outline a few here just so you’re not surprised
when you come across them in the patterns.
Each individual pattern will have a little guide
like the ones shown on the next page that
maps out the shape and growth of that particular Curl.
Flip things around There’s no reason the edge
has to be on the left. It works just as well on
the right. About half the patterns have the
edge on the left and half on the right.
Start with a wedge Often, especially if the
main repeat is rather wide, there’s not a good
way to jump in with a main repeat right from
the start. In those cases, you can start with a
wedge and use it to create the space you need
a little farther into the piece.
Leave some pieces out Sometimes you don’t
need a special chart to be ready to bind off,
and the pattern may not include a finish
Change the slope In the example we started
with, there was room for one more main
repeat every time you worked through the
series of edge, main repeat, wedge, and
increases. But that isn’t set in stone. You can
make space for two or three or even more
extra main repeats each time. It all depends
on how fast the Curl grows. Different rates
of increase will give you different finished
Blocking See page 9.
Cast on These cast ons are quite short, so you
can use whatever cast on you like best. The
projects here use the long-tailed cast on.
Cast off The bound-off edge needs to be
very stretchy, I recommend Jeny’s Surprisingly
Stretchy Bind Off as seen in the Fall 2009 issue
of Knitty. You’re welcome to use another, but it
is important to make sure it’s stretchy!
Charts See page 8.
Gauge See page 7.
Needles See page 7.
Stitch definitions Any unusual or potentially
unknown stitches are defined as you encounter them. Look for the grey boxes with each
pattern for the details of that pattern’s fancy
Stitch markers You may find it helpful to
separate each instance of the main repeat with
a stitch marker.
Swatches Swatches are always a good idea.
Always. That said, these projects are unusually
forgiving, and getting a particular gauge isn’t
important (as long as you like the fabric you’re
getting, see page 7 for more about this). If you
wanted to just start knitting and judge your
fabric once you’re a few inches in, I won’t tell.
Right-side row Right-side rows are worked
with the public side of the Curl facing you.
While you knit them, read the chart from right Wingspan This is the edge created by the
stitches you add when you work the increases.
to left and follow the right-side notations in
It is opposite the bound-off edge and will
the stitch key. See page 8 for more.
likely be closest to your neck when you wear
Sizing See page 7.
Slipped stitches All of the projects call for
slipping stitches along the edge of the knitting
to create a tidy selvage edge. There are almost
as many ways to do this as there are knitters. If
you’re getting elongated stitches along the edge
of the fabric, you’re doing it right!
One approach that works for most people is
to always slip the first stitch as if to purl with
your yarn held to the wrong side of the fabric.
If you find that’s not working for the way you
knit, you can also try holding the yarn to the
back of the work and slipping as if to knit on
right-side rows and holding the yarn to the
front of the work and slipping as if to purl on
Wrong-side row Wrong-side rows are worked
with the private side of the Curl facing you.
While you knit them, read the chart from left
to right and follow the wrong-side notations in
the stitch key. See page 8 for more.
Yarn requirements Each pattern lists a
generous estimate for the yarn needed to
complete the project as shown in the picture.
This is a good guideline, but estimating
yardage requirements is a bit of a black art. If
you decide to make your Curl with a different
weight of yarn or in a different finished size,
you’ll need a different amount of yarn. See
page 7 for more about this. Luckily, these are
perfect knit-until-the-yarn-runs-out projects!
One of the most marvelous things about Curls
is their flexibility. You can use just about any
weight of yarn, and you can make them in
whatever size you’d like. That’s wonderful, and
it gives you a tremendous amount of freedom
to create exactly what you want, but it does
mean I can’t tell you too much about your
gauge, which needles to use, how big to make
your Curl, or how much yarn you’ll need.
Think about it for a moment. If I show you a
Curl worn as a cowl and made with fingeringweight yarn, and you decide to knit that same
Curl to wear as a shawl using a worsted-weight
yarn, of course you’re going to get a different
gauge, use different needles, end up with a different size, and use a different number of yards
of yarn. That’s how it’s supposed to work. These
patterns give you the freedom to use whatever
yarn you choose and to make whatever size
I’ve listed the gauge for the samples shown in
the book, but you don’t need to worry about
matching it. The most important thing to
remember about gauge is that if you’re getting
a fabric you like, you’ve got the right gauge! If, as
you work, you find you want a tighter, firmer
fabric, go down a needle size. If you want
a looser, drapier fabric, go up a needle size.
You’re in complete control.
The same applies for the size of your Curl.
Have a small skein of yarn? Make a cowl. The
smallest project shown here used less than 250
yards of yarn. And if you want to make a giant
shawl to snuggle up in, you can do that too.
You’re in charge. If you’re happy, it’s perfect.
I do recommend checking the size of your
Curl from time to time as they have been
known to grow rather quickly. To do that,
you’re going to want to stretch it out to its full
size. The edge with the live stitches wants to
curve, so you need to get your stitches onto
something flexible. If you’re using circulars
and your cable is long enough, you can use
that (being careful not to let stitches pop off
the ends). If not, a piece of waste yarn will do
the trick. Just transfer your stitches to a piece
of waste yarn, spread your Curl out flat, and
see if you’ve got the size you like (go ahead
and give it a good tug as most knitting grows a
bit with blocking).
I love charts. They’re a great way to present a
large amount of information in a small amount
of space. But as much as I love them, I realize
that they can seem a bit daunting if you’re not
used to them. Once you get to know them
though, they’re really not hard. The most
important thing to remember is that charts
show you a stylized picture of the right side
of your work. Keep that in mind, and you’re
Row 1: purl 1, yarn over, work a left-leaning
knit decrease, knit 3, work a right-leaning knit
decrease, yarn over, purl 1.
Next, move on to row 2. All the patterns in
this book are worked flat, so you’ll always turn
your work at the end of every row. Row 2 is a
wrong-side row. Since you’re working a wrongside row, you’ll work across the chart from left
to right and make the stitches as indicated by
the wrong-side (WS) entries in the stitch key.
If a stitch only has one entry in the stitch key,
The easiest way to get to know a chart is to
work through an example. So let’s talk through it’s either only worked on right-side rows, or
it’s the same on both right-side and wrong-side
this sample chart step by step.
Row 2: knit 1, purl 7, knit 1.
Turn your work again, and move on to row 3,
a right-side row.
Row 3: purl 1, knit 1, yarn over, work a leftleaning knit decrease, knit 1, work a right-leaning
knit decrease, yarn over, knit 1, purl 1.
Always start with row 1, which is always the
bottom row. First, figure out if row 1 is a rightside row or a wrong-side row. The instructions
will tell you, but you can also tell from the
chart. If it’s a right-side row, the row number
will be on the right of the chart. If it’s a wrongside row, the row number will be on the left of
In this example, row 1 is a right-side row.
Now start knitting! Just read across the chart
and make the stitches in the order they’re
shown. Since you’re working a right-side
row, you’ll work across the row from right to
left and make the stitches as indicated by the
right-side (RS) entries in the stitch key.
Turn your work again and move to row 4, a
Row 4: knit 1, purl 7, and knit 1.
That’s really all there is to it! Some charts are
bigger, but the basic principles always hold.
The only other thing you might want to pay
attention to is stitch repeats. These are indicated by heavy borders surrounding blocks of
stitches. When you see these, you know you’ll
need to repeat the stitches within the borders
as described in the stitch key and notes. You
may want to separate stitch repeats with stitch
markers to help you keep track of them.
Curls pop into shape with blocking. The
pieces here have all been vigorously blocked,
and you’ll want to do the same with yours.
Now, pin out the straight edge. I use a ruler
to keep it nice and straight. Be sure to use
Start by soaking your Curl in cool water for at
least half an hour. Then, roll it up in a towel
and gently squeeze out the excess water.
Next, pin the bottom edge in a few places just
to keep everything following the shape you
established when you patted it out.
Next, lay it out on your blocking surface (I
use blocking mats, but a bed or even a clean
carpet will work) and pat it into shape.
Then, stretch the top edge (that’s your boundoff edge) and pin it in place. You can give it a
good, firm tug to really open up your stitches.
Depending on the pattern, the edge may have
ripples (like the green swatch), or be smooth
(like the magenta swatch).
Your shape will look something like the
swatches below or the pictures on page 2
though the precise shape will change depending on which pattern you’re following. The
light purple swatch has the straight edge on
the left. The green swatch has the straight edge
on the right. The magenta swatch shows a very
curly Curl with the straight edge on the right.
Finally, remove the pins along the bottom edge
as the shape will be quite well defined by the
pins along the top.
Let it dry completely (I know it’s hard, but it’s
important) before carefully unpinning.
Curls. She wondered what a Curl might look
like as a stitch map, and I wonded how I might
include some stitch maps in this book. Things
got a bit hazy after that, but before too much
longer, we had a plan. We’d create stitch maps
for the Curls and include links to them as a
special feature in the eversion.
One of the most delightful things about writing knitting books is meeting other knitting
book authors. It’s really awfully neat. There’s
nothing quite like spending time with folks
who truly understand what you do.
A few years ago, I was lucky enough to meet
JC Briar at an authors’ retreat. You probably
know JC from her marvelous book, Charts
Made Simple. If you’ve seen that, you know
she’s a big fan of charts.
And that’s just what we’ve done!
Whenever you see the stitch
maps logo (that’s it over there on
the left) beside a chart, click it
to see the corresponding stitch
map online. You’ll see how Curls pair beautifully with stitch maps (just look how closely
the stitch map below matches the swatch), and
you’ll get to use all the nifty features of StitchMaps.com. JC and I both think you’re going
to love working with stitch maps!
But, over the last few years, she’s been playing
with an ingenious new idea: charts without
grids. They’re called stitch maps, and I think
they’re marvelous. She’ll tell you all about
them on the next page. But before we get to
that, I want to tell you about this neat little
plan we came up with.
So, the last time we visited, JC was talking
about stitch maps, and I was talking about
What are stitch maps Simply put, stitch maps
are knitting charts drawn without a grid. The
symbols of a stitch map are thus free to move
about, and to take the same relative positions
as the stitches of the corresponding fabric.
With stitch maps, you get charts that provide a
truer picture of knitted fabric.
Why try stitch maps Stitch maps show the
shape of your fabric. This is very important
They also show how the stitches connect from
row to row. You get to see which two stitches
of the previous row each yarn over snuggles
between, and which stitches are joined by a
decrease. This helps you see how the parts of a
stitch pattern are supposed to fit together.
And the better you can see how the fabric
is supposed to be, the more likely you’ll be
able to follow the pattern with a minimum of
How to keep track of your current row
Because a stitch map shows you how the parts
of a stitch pattern fit together, you may find
that you memorize the pattern more quickly,
and can then set the stitch map aside. Until
then, here are some tips for keeping track of
your current row within a stitch map:
ccWhen you're on Stitch-Maps.com, click
the “Row guides” option to see light gray
lines tracing out each row.
ccPrint out the stitch map, and highlight
each row as you work it. Use a yellow
highlighter pen on the first pass, and a
different color on the next pass.
ccLet Stitch-Maps.com keep track of and
highlight your current row for you by
purchasing a basic subscription.
What else you need to know Some of the
symbols used within stitch maps are different from the symbols you’ll see in grid-based
How to read stitch maps You read stitch maps charts. That’s because the stitch map symbols
just like you read grid-based charts: in the
have to be distinct even when drawn at a
same direction that you knit, remembering
slight angle, to show the tilt of the stitch. For
that each symbol is showing you the right-side example, the right-leaning decrease symbol
view of a stitch.
can’t be a simple slanted line – that would be
too similar to a tilted symbol for a knit stitch.
Read each stitch map from the bottom up, in
rows. Right-side rows are numbered at the
All the symbols, however, are meant to resemstitch map’s right edge; read them from right
ble the stitches they represent. Just review the
to left. Wrong-side rows are numbered at the
key (there is a link to the key at the bottom of
left edge; read them from left to right. In other every page of the site) to get the gist of each
words, read each row starting from the edge
symbol, and you’ll be fine.
with the row number.
So that stitch maps can more closely resemble
the right side of your fabric, each symbol
shows the right-side view of a stitch. Review
the key at Stitch-Maps.com to understand
how to work each symbol on both right- and
Author of Charts Made Simple
Creator of Stitch-Maps.com
shown in DK Weight, a DK-weight
yarn by Swans Island, in the color
gauge & sizing Shown at 12 stitches
in 4 inches in pattern as charted. The
piece shown used 325 yards of yarn
and has a wingspan of 48 inches.
Cast on Cast on 8 stitches.
Body Odd rows are wrong-side rows. Even
rows are right-side rows.
Work the Chart, repeating the 4 rows surrounded by the thick border as described in
the key and note, until Curl reaches desired
size. Each row increases the stitch count by 1.
Stop after completing row 4 of the Chart.
Work a final row by slipping the first stitch as
if to purl and purling to the end.
Finishing Bind off loosely using a stretchy bind
off. Weave in ends. Block to shape.
Note The 4 rows surrounded by the thick
border are repeated to adjust the size of
the Curl. The first time you work them,
work the block of yellow stitches once.
The second time you work them, work the
block of yellow stitches three times. Each
subsequent time you work them, work the
block of yellow stitches two more times.
Knit, wrapping twice Knit, wrapping the
yarn around the needle twice. On the next
row, when you come to this stitch, drop
the extra loop of yarn off the needle.
Author Hunter Hammersen Isbn 9780984998258 File size 12MB Year 2014 Pages 68 Language English File format PDF Category Hobbies Book Description: FacebookTwitterGoogle+TumblrDiggMySpaceShare Curls are marvelously flexible, wearable wraps that work with any weight of yarn, can be knit at any gauge, and look beautiful at any size. Knit them small and wear them as a cowl. Keep going to make a scarf. Do a bit more, and you’ve got a shawl. They form a wonderfully curved shape that drapes beautifully around your neck and shoulders and can be worn in lots of different ways. Use your favorite yarn, and knit at whatever gauge gives you the fabric you like best. You’re in charge, you can’t mess it up, and you re going to love the result! One small note, the structure of these pieces lends itself much better to charted instructions than to written out instructions. So please be aware that all the patterns use charts. If you’re new to charts, never fear. There is a lovely introduction to using charts at the front of the book. Read through it, and you’ll be ready to go in no time! Download (12MB) Curls 2: Versatile, Wearable Wraps to Knit at Any Gauge Iris Schreiers Reversible Knits I Cant Believe Im Lace Knitting (Leisure Arts #4466) Knitting Fresh Brioche: Creating Two-Color Twists & Turns Fashionable Projects for the New Knitter Load more posts